Email Journal

09/09/04. The White Mountains of New Hampshire

Dear family and friends,

I know it's been a long time since my last message. Internet access was unavailable in the White Mtns, no town was big enough to have a library until Gorham and I was there on a Sunday. I'm currently in Andover ME, having just finished the Mahoosuc Range. Here's what's been happening since my last message.

I rented a car and picked up my two boys at Manchester NH airport on Aug 13. I'm really glad they came out to hike with me, it means a lot to have them participate in my big adventure.

On the way back to Hanover we stopped to visit a high school friend of mine, Karen Y. We had been out of touch since the 10th grade when I moved from New Jersey to New Hampshire. Jim, a high school friend on this mailing list, passed my trail email to Karen at the 30th reunion of my NJ high school earlier this year. Karen and I last saw each other when we were 16, now we are 48. It was a bit disorienting! We spent several happy hours sharing our experiences in the intervening years, pausing a couple of times just to look at each other. I'm glad to reconnect again after all these years, one of the many magical happenings on the Trail.

My sons and I hiked together from Hanover NH to Glencliff NH, a distance of about 40 miles in 4 days. Dan (20) picked the trail name Devo, meaning male lead singer, the male form of Deva. This is his nickname in his music fraternity at college. For Ben (18) I suggested D.M., short for Dungeon Master, the story teller role in Dungeons and Dragons, one of his passions. They got a good dose of trail culture as we stayed in the shelters and talked with other hikers. Ben and I slept in the fire tower atop Smarts Mountain one night. It was mostly cloudy during this section with intermittent views. The terrain was more rugged than Vermont but far less rugged than the White Mtns to come.

We ended our hike at the Hiker's Welcome Hostel at Glencliff and stayed overnight there. Now or Never and Speak Up came in the next morning, and I was happy to see them again and glad they could meet my boys. Last saw Speak Up in PA. Karen Y kindly drove up to Glencliff and took us to the airport.

I spent the next week in MI. My wife Karen and I drove Ben up to Michigan Tech in the Upper Peninsula, near Lake Superior, where he is an entering freshman. It was good to be home with my wife and family and very hard to return to the trail. By this time I'd been away from home most of the last 5 months, which felt like a very long time. But I knew I had to return and finish the adventure.

I flew back to New Hampshire on August 25. My brother Rich picked me up at the airport, which was great since it will be our only chance to get together this year. We drove up to Wolfeboro NH, where my parents lived from 1972 until the end of their lives and where I graduated from high school. There we met my sister Chocolate Chip (Sue) and husband Jeff. Jeff's parents have a condo in Wolfeboro where we stayed for the night for a short family reunion.

On the 26th Chocolate Chip, Jeff and I slack-packed Mt. Mooselauke, first of the White Mountains, a massive western sentinel at over 4800'. Rich had to return to work. On the advice of the shuttle driver at Glencliff we did it southbound, a fortunate choice since the climb out Kinsman Notch was incredibly steep, much easier to go up than down. The trail followed a brook up past a seemingly endless series of waterfalls, cascades, and spillways, one of the most scenic sections of trail so far. The summit was partially socked-in with limited views of nearby peaks. We were pretty tired by the time we reached the Hikers Welcome Hostel in Glencliff 10 trail miles later. It was great to spend another day with Chocolate Chip and Jeff on the trail, they've really been active participants in my adventure. The shuttle driver took us back to Kinsman Notch. Along the way we picked up a hiker named Loon (M63), my first introduction to this famous trail personality who is on his 5th A.T. thru-hike. Sue and Jeff drove home, I walked another 3 miles to Gordon Pond where I camped alone, arriving after dark.

The next morning I saw my first moose of the trip, a cow and and calf on the other side of Gordon Pond at 6 am. Mom was aware of me immediately from 75 yards away. She looked at me and shifted nervously. After a minute or two she gave a bassoon-like snort, and Mom and Junior trotted off into the woods.

After doing 13 miles on my first day in the Whites I was feeling pretty good, thinking this wouldn't be so bad, but I had my attitude adjusted on the second day. The climb up South Kinsman was just short of ridiculous with a 1000 foot vertical in about 1/2 mile, much of it hand over hand rock scrambling. I did 8 miles in 8 hours that day, settling the pace for the rest of my White Mtn adventure: 1 mph.

Walked down to Franconia Notch the next day. Slipped while crossing Cascade Brook part way down, slid down about 4 feet and scraped my arm and leg. No serious damage, but a warning to be careful. Resupplied and climbed 2500' up Franconia Ridge the same afternoon to Liberty Spring tent site. Most nights in the Whites there were groups of college students on orientation trips camping at the tent sites. That night a group from Tufts invited me into their site and fed me some camp-cooked pizza. The college students I met were all very friendly and generous. It occurred to me that having little in the way of possessions they perceive the Universe as abundant and gladly share what they have. Only later in life when we are gathering and holding onto assets do we perceive scarcity and feel protective of what we own.

The 29th I walked over Franconia Ridge including Mt. Lafayette, an exposed ridge above the tree line considered by some the most spectacular section of the entire A.T. On that day the ridge was completely socked in with visibility about 100 feet, but fortunately it was calm and warm. The rocky terrain with stunted trees, stone steps, rock cairns, giant outcroppings and fog had an other-worldly look to it. "Fog on the Barrow Downs" came to mind.

Stayed that night at Galehead Hut, one of the mountain houses maintained by the Appalachian Mountain Club (AMC). It costs paying guests $75/night to stay in these huts, which includes a bunk bed, breakfast, and dinner but no shower. Fortunately the AMC has a generous work-for-stay program for thru-hikers. My job that night was to sift kitchen compost, the final step before it is sent to the forest. Thru-hikers eat with the croo after the guests are done and sleep in the dining room on the floor or tables, but it's still a great deal.

The word "hut" is misleading, "chalet" might be closer. These are large beautiful fully-enclosed structures, with lots of windows, cedar siding, a big bunk room, commercial sized kitchen, and large dining area. They sleep 30-100 people and have a "croo" of 5-7 young people who cook and clean for guests. The huts are spaced 5-7 miles apart across the high peaks of the Whites, following the Appalachian Trail. Wealthy hikers can traverse the White Mtns with only a day pack by walking from hut to hut.

Saw another moose the next afternoon, a cow hiding behind a tree about 75 feet away off the trail. Of course a moose cannot really hide behind a tree. She kept her eye behind the tree as I walked by, as if to say "Don't look at me!" Camped with a group of college students from Brown that night. They fed me a fine meal of vegetable stir fry.

On Aug 31 I walked down into Crawford Notch, hitch-hiked into Glen, bought food, and had lunch at a restaurant. Was planning to spend the night at a commercial campground in Glen, take a shower and wash clothes. Walked to the campground entrance, then spontaneously crossed the street and stuck my thumb out. Didn't want to spend the night by myself in town and lose an afternoon hiking, felt a need to be on the trail. Hitchhiked back to Crawford Notch and walked 6 miles up another incredibly steep trail, Webster Cliff, with many rock scrambles. This is the south end of the famed Presidential Range. The weather cleared that afternoon for the first time since I entered the Whites, and I had splendid 50 mile views south and north through the Notch. This is the White Mtns I know and love from 30 years of hiking in this part of the world - expansive, spacious, sublime. The higher I climbed the farther I could see, mountains stretching in all directions. Stayed at Mizpah Spring Hut that night, swept the dining hall and bunk rooms the next morning for my work.

Sep 1 was foggy and very windy. Walked only 5 miles to Lake in the Clouds Hut, most of it above the tree line. 50 mph winds made walking above the tree line difficult and my glasses became covered with water droplets although it wasn't raining. Washed about 2 cubic yards of dishes that afternoon with Shivers (M25), another thru-hiker. Later in the afternoon the clouds lifted to slightly above the elevation of the hut, 5040 feet, and Shivers, Peter, and I walked over to the top of Tuckerman Ravine on the other side of the ridge. This area is well above the tree line with the Mt. Washington summit looming above. It is a wilderness of frost-shattered rocks, lichen, and moss, a bit of arctic tundra stranded far to the south. We passed a yellow sign that said "WARNING: This area has the worst weather in America. If the weather looks at all bad, turn back now." Saw a line of rock cairns stretching off into the distance up Boot Spur Mtn. as if marking an ancient Druid path, leading perhaps to a circle of standing stones. On the way back we saw a BEAR. Totally surprising at this altitude - what does he eat? - but no doubt about it, we all watched it through Peter's binoculars.

Sep 2 dawned perfectly clear and relatively calm. It was 37 deg F outside the hut and 50 deg F inside - no heat. Shivers and I walked the mile or so up to the Mt. Washington summit at 6288 ft - highest peak in the northeast. Stunning 80 mile views, mountains rolling off into the distance in all directions. We could see our entire route through the Whites starting with Mt. Mooselauke. Warmed up quickly during the morning. I walked over the North Presidentials in crystalline air and bright sunshine - Mt. Clay, Mt. Jefferson, Mt. Adams, with panoramic views around and plunging gulfs below. Got to Madison Hut about 3:30pm, decided to continue to Osgood Tentsite. Climbed up Mt. Madison in late afternoon - a striking pyramidal mountain, the northern end of the Presidential range. The walk down Madison was harrowing - 2500' descent over shattered rock and boulders. Felt I was one misstep from the Pearly Gates the whole time, or at least a broken leg.

The next day I walked down to Pinkam Notch Visitor Center, where I took a blessed shower and had lunch. No laundry available, so I washed my hiking clothes in the sink and put them on wet. Called my son Ben at Michigan Tech to wish him a happy birthday, then headed out to the trail again and up Wildcat Mountain.

The ascent of Wildcat was another crazy 2000' rock scramble. Stayed at Carter Notch Hut that night. The next day I walked 15 miles into Gorham NH. Total time in the White Mountains: 100 miles over 10 days, by far the most difficult and spectacular part of the trail so far. Stayed two nights at The Barn in Gorham, an actual barn adjacent to a bed and breakfast. Did a zero day on Sep 5.

Started into the Mahoosuc Range on Sep 6. The Mahoosucs are a famously difficult section of the trail. My wife Karen, my brother Rich, and I did this section together about 5 B.C. (before children). I remember it as pretty but frustrating and exhausting. My brother was on the UNH swim team at that time. He was in much better shape than I was and frankly he kicked my butt. This time it wasn't nearly as difficult, perhaps because my pack is lighter, I'm in better shape, and my brother wasn't here to kick my butt. As the trail goes north it gets more and more rugged, culminating in the notorious Mahoosuc Notch, considered the most difficult mile of the Appalachian Trail.

I passed through the Notch on Sep 8 with Southern Man (M40s) and Doc (M46). Mahoosuc Notch is a narrow glacial gorge bordered by cliffs and filled with boulders that range in size from sofas to Volkswagens to houses. The angular boulders form an incredible jumble - a jungle gym of rock. The trail passes over, around, and under the boulders, including several caves. At the bottom of some caves we could see year-round ice gleaming, a testament to the severe climate here. We put our trekking poles in our packs so we could use both hands and feet. Being a primate has it's advantages - I'm don't think a dog could make it through there without help. Traversing the notch was actually a lot of fun. At one point we had to take our packs off and pass them through a narrow cave. It took us almost 2 hours to go about 1 mile.

Mahoosuc Notch is followed by Mahoosuc Arm - a steep 1600 foot ascent, much of it over sloping bedrock. Southbounders warned us about this in ominous tones, but we found it tame compared to the Whites. Rain was forecast that day, but our prayers were answered and it held off until we passed the Arm. Later we went over Old Spec, third highest peak in ME, then down to Grafton Notch.

Last night Doc and I stayed at The Cabin in Andover ME, in my mind the finest hostel I have stayed at on the Trail. It is a log cabin out in the woods and home to Margie and Earle Towne. A bunkroom for hikers is built onto the side. The inside is cathedral ceilings, knotty pine, stained glass windows, exposed beams, and spacious rooms. $15 buys a bunk, a shower, laundry, and Internet. $13 more buys all-you-can-eat breakfast and dinner. Last night we had a splendid meal of spaghetti and meatballs, rolls, corn on the cob, salad, wine, ice cream and brownies. This morning was unlimited pancakes, bacon, biscuits, OJ, coffee, and omelette's.

The forecast today from the Weather Channel was "deluges" (really!), so we all decided to take a zero day. Very comfortable and relaxing here. Today is my 48th birthday and a cake is in preparation for a party. Tomorrow is Mighty Joy's 34th birthday, so we will celebrate again! Tomorrow is also lobster day, an occasional feast provided by The Cabin at no extra charge. We plan to slack pack the next two days using the free shuttle service provided by The Cabin.

My feet feel quite a bit better, better than they have for months in fact. I got rid of my Superfeet insoles at Franconia Notch and went back to just my Merrill walking shoes and factory insoles. This seems to work better - not as hard inside. Or maybe it is just the shorter miles (but not shorter hours).

There is not a day when I don't wish at least once that this trip was over and I was back home again. But there is not a day when some new wonder is not revealed. This is not an easy venture but it is endlessly rewarding. It is amplified living - both the pleasant and unpleasant. I look forward to the final leg of my venture in wild Maine, and look forward to my return home.

Best wishes from the Appalachian Trail,

Raven