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Dear family and friends,
I'm now at Laurel Creek Lodge in Tennessee, about 50 miles south on the trail
from the Virginia border, and near the spot marked Laurel Fork Gorge on the
big AT map. Settling into the groove now. The days and miles seem to flow by.
Sometimes I feel like the world is turning under me as I walk but I'm not moving,
like walking on top of a big rolling beach ball. The mountains and forests flow
by but I'm always just right here.
Thru-hiking the Appalachian Trail is sometimes described as "an adventure
like no other", and I think this is true. The combination of a 2000 mile
walking path, natural wonders, fascinating people, and interesting places along
the trail is unique in the world, to my knowledge. Here are a few of the high
points during the last 10 days.
Big Firescald Knob - On 4/28 my hiking partner Now or Never (formerly Andante)
and I walked a new section of the trail just opened this year, across a limestone
spine on the extreme western edge of the Appalachian Mountains. 360 degree views
on mountains to the north, east, and south, with the Tennessee Valley spread
out to the west, dotted with farms and towns. In the far distance we could see
Cumberland Mountain. Met Speak Up this day, a 40 year old man who teachers 8th
grade near Grand Rapids and leads a youth leadership program called Speak Up.
Been hiking with him and Now or Never most days since.
Cheeseburgers by Harley - On 4/29 I walked down into Sam's Gap to find Now or
Never lounging in the sun. Speak Up had already started walking down the road
toward a diner renowned on the trail for it's cheeseburgers. We had heard that
they would send a shuttle back for hikers waiting at the gap, so Speak Up was
kindly doing the walking to fetch the shuttle for us. Soon a local guy named
Billy Ricket pulled up on a brand new red Harley Davidson Classic motorcycle.
He asked if we were hikers and we talked for awhile about the AT. Now or Never
mentioned that Speak Up was walking to the diner. Billy Ricket took off on his
bike, and returned about 45 minutes later with Speak Up, his pack, and 2 big
bags of take-out food: double cheeseburgers, fries, and cherry pie for each
of us hikers. Turns out Billy caught up with Speak Up about 1.5 miles down the
road and drove him to the diner, which was closed. They then went to a second
diner about 3 miles from the trail which was going to close in 10 minutes. No
shuttle. Thinking fast, Speak Up ordered take out for all of us. To see all
this great food arrive in the nick of time was truly Trail Magic to us. We feasted
by the roadside like crows, with many thanks to Billy Rickett and Speak Up.
Heath and welfare - My weight is stable at 153 pounds, which isn't too surprising
considering the amount of food I've been eating. This is essentially my college
weight, so I guess that's what's left when the fat is burned off. Some other
men on the trail have lost 20 pounds. Men tend to lose weight as they burn off
fat, but women (according to trail lore) tend to convert fat to muscle and not
lose many pounds. Got a few blisters after buying expensive cushioned insoles
in Hot Springs, went back to the factory insoles and the blisters disappeared.
Now or Never developed shin splints. We took a day off in Hot Springs to let
feet and legs recuperate. Many other hikers of all ages are off the trail temporarily
or permanently due to feet, ankle, and knee problems. I'm grateful my body is
supporting me well.
It's said that it takes a month to get into shape and it's been a month. For
me being in shape means I still walk as slow as ever, it still takes the same
effort to climb up those hills, but somehow I can keep going hour after hour
without running out of gas. Yesterday we did 18 miles over hilly terrain. Felt
fine as we pulled into camp, could have easily walked a few more miles if needed.
Miss Janets - We took a zero day at Erwin TN. Intended to stay at a well known
hostel run by Miss Janet, but once in town heard from another hiker that it
was "chaos" there with a waiting list, so Now or Never and I checked
into the Super-8. Later went over the check out Miss Janet's. It reminded me
of the house I lived in the first year of graduate school in Ann Arbor. An old
house with a big porch in a nice older neighborhood. Ragged sofas and chairs
on the porch and in the living room. Two first-floor rooms converted to bunkrooms.
A big screen TV in the living room, a big old kitchen. Twenty-somethings lounging
everywhere, loving the frat-house atmosphere. We heard that some residents had
been there for a week. Apparently it can be hard to leave Miss Janet's.
Miss Janet herself is a likeable woman in her early 40s who lives upstairs with
her two teenage daughters. She drives hikers all over in her full sized van,
caring for their needs like a mother hen.
On the afternoon of 5/2 Miss Janet drove a gaggle of hikers including yours
truly 1 1/4 hours back to Hot Springs, purportedly for an event sponsored by
Backpacker Magazine. By the time we got there the event was over. It was cold
and raining. Miss Janet drove back and forth across Hot Springs collecting hikers
for a barbeque, including the legendary Baltimore Jack who thru-hiked the trail
8 years in a row. This year he is staying in Hot Springs and working in the
outfitter store. Baltimore Jack provided the grill and some supplies, Miss Janet
bought the food and accepted donations. She then drove two van loads of hikers
down to a park by the river, where she and Baltimore Jack put on a major party
and feed. At least 25 people there. Great fun talking to many other hikers,
including a young man from Israel named Pita Man because he makes pita bread
from scratch every night and cooks it on an open fire. was dressed only in shorts
and two lightweight shirts and would have frozen if not for a young woman named
Goosebumps (appropriately), who kindly loaned me her rain suit. Got back to
Hot Spring at 11:15 PM.
At the Hot Springs party, two young people independently guessed my age at 35.
When I told them I was 47, I could see the mental recalibration in progress
from peer to older generation. One young man thought a while then said it would
be cool if his father would hike the trail. I had to laugh, from buddy to Dad.
I really like being around these young people. They are so generous, joyful,
enthusiastic, and include us old men in their social circle without a thought.
One notable difference between young and old: the time we get up in the morning.
Us old folks tend to get up at dawn when the birds start singing. The youngsters
get up rather later. One morning as the old people were making breakfast by
the shelter a young guy called over from the tentsite, "Don't you old guys
know how to sleep in? Keep is down over there!", in a joking tone.
Roan Highlands - On 5/4 we climbed Roan High Knob and stayed in the shelter
at the top, elev. 6285', higher than Mount Washington in New Hampshire. Unlike
most shelters that are 3-sided, this shelter has four sides with windows and
doors to deal with the extreme weather. It was 34 deg and windy that night and
we woke up in the clouds. The next day was a splendid walk through perhaps the
most scenic country we have seen: the Roan Highlands of North Carolina/Tennessee.
A series of open grassy balds, some over 5000' elevation, winds up to 40 mph,
360 degree views of mountains in all directions. Reminded "General"
of hiking in his native England.
The next major milestone is Damascus Virginia, which we will reach on 5/10 or
11. Trail Days is held in Damascus 5/14-16. Trail Days is a major extravaganza
where hikers gather from all directions. Gear vendors put up tents, there are
parades and water fights, big barbecues, and I'm not sure what else. I'll walk
past Damascus and catch a shuttle back to Trail Days. Tell you more after it
happens!
I could go on and on but you have all the rest of your email to process so that's
all for now.
Best wishes to you all,
Dave Coupland / Raven