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Dear family and friends,
Now in Hot Springs NC, a small trail town nestled in the mountains east of the
Smokies and famous for, you guessed it, natural hot springs. The wildflowers
in the southern Smokies were amazing. Spring Beauty wildflowers covered the
ridge tops as far as the eye could see left and right and continuing for miles
along the trail. Small white flowers with pink candy stripes, so numerous it
looked like the forest floor was covered with snow.
As we approached Clingman's Dome, the highest peak in the eastern US, the forest
abruptly changed from mixed hardward to a spruce-fir-hemlock forest that reminded
Bob and I of New England forests. We were treated to a 360 degree view from
the observation tower on Clingman's Dome (6600'), which was lucky since it is
often shrouded in cloud.
Later that day we descended to route 441 where we met Papa Smurf and his wife
Flame, 2002 thru-hikers. They fed us Krispy Kreme donuts and pop, then arranged
a ride for 5 of us into Gatlinburg. Gatlinburg is called the Los Vegas of the
Smokies, although the casino is over the pass in the Cherokee reservation. In
Gatlinburg we found 15 pancake houses, 15 steak houses, innumerable T-shirt
stores and souvenir shops, Ripley's Believe it or Not, leather stores, jewelry
stores, etc. You get the idea. Major sensory overload after days in the mountains.
Also heard a great local bluegrass band.
The next day north of the pass was the most scenic day so far. We walked along
6000' knife-edge ridges above cliffs plunging into steep ravines. Ravens circled
in the open spaces below. Tall spruce and fir trees climbed the slopes, with
many dead trees twisted into fantastic shapes. It reminded several of us of
the scenes in New Zealand from the Lord of the Rings movies.
The next day we stopped for the night at Sleeping Bear Farm, a rustic hiker's
hostel down a dirt road in the middle of the national forest. The owner Curtis
has built a rough bunkhouse, kitchen building, cabin, and various outbuildings
from peeled trees, clapboard, and recycled windows. He lives with his wife and
two small daughters on a farmhouse on the premises. Lots of local color.
At Standing Bear we heard of a major "feed" going on at Brown Gap
10 miles down the trail, and arrived there the next afternoon. Over 16 hours
I consumed a cheeseburger, 1 root beer, a coke, 2 beers, a 12 oz. rib-eye steak,
corn on the cob, fresh asparagras, pecan pie, several pieces of a cake called
manna, 4 pancakes, and 6 pieces of bacon. At least 20 hikers were camped out
around the gap forming a tent city, and a busload of 10 more arrived about 10
pm from a hostel 100 miles away. The festivities continued to 5 am, although
I turned in at 9:30pm. This phenomenal production costs over $1500 and has been
going on for 14 years, organized by a pair of brother-in-laws called the hobos,
one from North Carolina, one from Tennessee.
Walked two more days through hillsides of white trilliums, lily of the valley,
and a few lady slippers. Now staying at a great hiker hostel in Hot Springs
called Elmer's - a huge old Victorian house which also houses meditation retreats
and natural-stuff workshops during other times of the year. Connected to an
organic farm, offers home-cooked vegetarian meals, and run by hippies. A huge
collection of great bumper stickers cover the entrance, such as "Practice
Compassionate Impeachment".
Many hikers are laid up with feet, ankle, or knee problems. Thankfully my body
is healthy and my enthusiasm still strong. It is an amazing experience. I've
been feeling a lot of gratitude for this opportunity, for the wonderful people
in my life, and for life in general.
That's all for now.
With much gratitude and loving wishes,
Raven / Dave Coupland